A spiced fish mousse of mackerel blended with coconut milk, chili and lemongrass, wrapped flat in banana or coconut leaf and grilled over charcoal until smoky at the edges. Nyonya in origin, it ranges from Singapore's firm orange otah to Muar's custardy version, eaten straight from the charred leaf.
Also known as: otak-otak, otak otak, otah, otah otah, grilled fish cake in banana leaf, otak-otak muar
Watch it made
Ingredients
- 400 g Spanish mackerel fillet, skinned
- 100 ml thick coconut milk
- 1 egg
- 3 shallots
- 2 lemongrass stalks, tender core only
- 3 dried red chilies, soaked
- 2 cm fresh turmeric (or 1/2 tsp ground)
- 3 makrut lime leaves, sliced hair-thin
- 1 tsp sugar and 1 tsp salt
- banana leaves and cocktail sticks
How to make it
- 1
Blend the shallots, lemongrass, chilies and turmeric into a fine rempah paste.
- 2
Pulse the mackerel with the rempah, coconut milk, egg, sugar and salt into a coarse mousse, then fold in the lime-leaf slivers.
- 3
Pass banana-leaf rectangles over a flame until glossy and pliable, spread 2 tablespoons of mousse flat along each, fold over and pin the ends.
- 4
Grill the parcels over hot charcoal 3-4 minutes a side, until the leaf chars and the mousse springs back when pressed.
- 5
Serve still wrapped, to be opened at the table.
Pro tip: Muar-style otak-otak is spread thin and flat, never lumped — a 1 cm layer sets in exactly the time the leaf needs to perfume it.
The story of Otak-Otak
Otak-otak is a spiced fish mousse — mackerel blended with coconut milk, chilli and lemongrass — wrapped flat in banana or coconut leaf and grilled over charcoal until smoky at the edges. It is Nyonya in origin, from the Peranakan Chinese communities of the Straits, and it ranges from Singapore's firm orange otah to Muar's custardy version.
The name means brains, which describes the texture rather than the ingredients. Regional variation is extreme: the Singapore and Muar versions differ enough that people travel for the one they prefer, and the Palembang version in Sumatra is a different dish again, boiled rather than grilled and served with a tamarind sauce.
The technique that defines it
The mousse texture comes from working the fish paste with coconut milk and egg until it is smooth and emulsified, and the amount of liquid decides where on the firm-to-custardy spectrum the result lands. Muar's version carries much more coconut milk and sets soft; Singapore's is firmer and slices cleanly.
The leaf is not a wrapper for convenience — it steams the mousse from inside while the outside chars, and banana leaf in particular contributes a distinct grassy aroma. Leaves must be softened first, over a flame or in hot water, or they split when folded.
Choosing your ingredients
Spanish mackerel (ikan tenggiri) is the standard fish and its texture is well suited to this; any firm white fish works. Fresh, not previously frozen, gives a better set.
Coconut milk, egg, and a rempah of chilli, shallot, garlic, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, candlenut and belacan (shrimp paste). Banana leaves, softened over a flame. Some versions add a little rice flour or tapioca flour for structure.
Mistakes that ruin it
Unsoftened banana leaves
They split when folded. Pass them over a flame or dip in hot water until they turn glossy and pliable.
Too much liquid
Coconut milk decides the texture. Too much and it will not set; the Muar custardy style is deliberate, not accidental.
Skipping the belacan
Shrimp paste supplies the savoury depth. Without it the mousse tastes flat and sweet.
Grilling too hot
The leaf burns through before the mousse sets. Moderate coals and turning.
How it is served
Straight from the charred leaf, eaten with the fingers, as a snack or with rice and other dishes. In Singapore it is a standard hawker item and a breakfast food; in Muar it is bought by the bundle. A squeeze of lime for the firmer versions.
Questions about Otak-Otak
What does otak-otak mean?
Brains — a reference to the soft mousse texture, not the ingredients.
What fish should I use?
Spanish mackerel (ikan tenggiri) is the standard. Any firm white fish works, and fresh gives a better set than previously frozen.
Why does mine not set?
Too much coconut milk. The liquid ratio decides where it falls on the firm-to-custardy spectrum, and Muar's soft version is a deliberate style rather than a failure.
How do I stop the banana leaf splitting?
Soften it first — pass it over a flame or dip it in hot water until it turns glossy and pliable.
